Well, staying on the 86' boxcar path, I started to tackle my Southern Pacific version. When I researched prototype photos, the chalky faded brown color just seemed to be a big ole doody on wheels rolling down the tracks. Since many boxcars are mineral brown, I needed a good method to turn the factory paint into a faded, chalky brown. I took a quick trip to the local craft store and bought a tube of raw sienna acrylic "transparent" paint. For my mixture, I added equal parts of the white and raw sienna, added some microflat, and topped it off with washer fluid. It has the consistency of 2% milk, or fat free if you prefer chocolate.
I had already given the SP version a heavy fade with just a white mix, and decided to try a top coating of the new mixture including the raw sienna. I am quite pleased in how it fades the car, yet the raw sienna provides a nice brown tint, without covering the car.
I thought I would share some photos of my progress. The first shot is the car with just the white fade that I did the other night. The second shot is after the raw sienna mix. It gives the car a much more realistic faded brown color than fading with straight white. The third photo includes a CNA car as comparison which is close to the original SP car color. I have a lot of work to do on this car still, but it is looking promising. I am really appreciative of Gary sharing his techniques, which have offered me a great starting point to test.
Does this mixture for the wash give you a good base in which to use acrylic paints to replicate rust without the acrylic paints beading up? I have used Polly S and am not encouraged with the results.
ReplyDeleteThank you
Charlie Hopkins
hopkinscv@att.net
if you spray with very thin coats it will work well directly on a factory finished car. Once the factory paint has a coat of weathering on it, the additional coats have a flat finish to adhere to. I use a double action airbrush which allows me to spray air and no paint, which helps me dry the wash quickly.
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