Saturday, April 21, 2012

Fade Experiment Continues - UP Centerbeam flatcar

I stated in an earlier post that after experimenting with my raw sienna fade mixture, I was going to try burnt sienna, and see if it gave me a slightly darker tint for all of the mineral red rollingstock that I have.  Using a very similar mixture, I tried fading a UP centerbeam flatcar.  I began applying the mixture directly to the factory paint, and noticed that it wasn't fading as fast I had hoped.  The tint was fine, but the car was still too dark.  I decided to fade with just white, and then use the tinted mixture as a top coat.  It makes sense since the two previous cars were both faded with white only before I began the color tinting experiments.  So I think what I am finding is that for a heavy fade, it's probably best to apply white first and then follow it with the color tinted mixture.  For a light application, I think the tinted mix could be applied directly to the new car.  Or, perhaps I could try to add some more white to the tinted mix.  I'll keep working on it.

I took this UP centerbeam a bit further than it probably needed, however, I find that the chalks and other weathering layers used after the fade tend to reduce the effect of the fade.

Another important note about Red Caboose centerbeams is that they ride plenty high on the trucks.  I took a dremel tool and ground down the bolster pad on the frame to lower the car slightly.  It isn't much, the the overall effect is noticeable.  I'll share some final shots once I get these projects completed.


  1. Great catch on the white fade base coat. That is akin to putting down a white or primer coat down first before applying airbrushing light colors such as yellow.

    How are the chalk colors holding up when you hit them with Dullcote?

    Ride height is a perennial issue for N scale. Thanks for posting what works with the RB centerbeams. I have about a dozen that I can't wait to work on having read your articles.

    Keep the posts coming!!!

    1. I found that dull coat from a rattle can goes on to heavy, so I apply with my airbrush whenever I can.